Upfall shower assembly
Rain shower .... Rain shower ... Waterfall shower .... just a few names for a water consuming way of showering. Until recently, because with the Upfallshower you get that batch of water over you, only with less water consumption than from the smallest hand shower.
On this page we pay special attention to points that you should pay attention to when placing.
Delivery of the Upfall shower
The Upfall showers are first tested extensively in the factory, after which they are packed on the road in a box. Make sure that the driver takes the Upfallshower as far as he can go and does not remove the Upfallshower from the packaging or bring it inside. The Upfallshower drain has a weight of approximately 40 kg.
When lifting, make sure that you only hold the system by the fixed parts of the frame.
The floor area where the Upfall will be placed must be flat. Minimum surface area 80x40cm to be able to properly place the system with the drain. The Upfallshower has a built-in depth of 9.5cm under the tiles. It is then assumed that the drain is completely flat on the floor. If the drain rises one cm towards the Upfall, add this to the installation depth.
Plug and play installing rain shower
The Upfallshower is delivered as a complete product. Weight 40 kg, almost all parts are pre-assembled so easy to install. The overhead shower and shower arm are supplied separately, as well as the hand shower with hose and siphon. The complete system has been tested in the factory in Dronten.
The screw thread on the back of the Upfall can be seen to which the supplied siphon must be attached. Make sure it is securely fastened before placing the Upfall.
The Upfallshower comes standard with a siphon on the right side.
It is very important to level the system in order to ensure that the water drains well and that it is possible to use tiles later on.
Ensure a good return of the water to the drain. The Upfallshower system pumps the water around 6 to 7 times per minute. It is therefore important that the water can drain properly.
After connecting the water and drainage, it is important to test the system for watertightness. In the beginning, a small layer of water may remain after emptying. This is because the siphon is still new. The siphon has a rubber spout that closes automatically when no water flows through it. The small amount of residual water cannot push this spout open at first. After some time of use, the rubber will become more flexible and the drain will drain better. But here too...look closely at the end of the sewer. If in doubt, choose a slightly higher position of the frame of the Upfallshower.
You can also build in the Upfallshower narrowly, as happened here. The brackets at the top of the frame that come against the wall are turned inwards here as can be seen in the photo.
The drain has a raised edge at the back. The raised edge on the drain is sawn in and bent backwards with pliers bent back horizontally as best as possible.
It is important that the floor to be poured may not end up behind the drain. During service, the glass plate can be removed and all parts behind the system can be accessed. That is why it is also important that the siphon is accessible and can be loosened if necessary. The exterior finish is done with waterproof plasterboard on the sides and the front with 6mm Wedi panel. These so-called "sandwich" panels are available at every professional hardware store. Other 6mm sheet material is also possible. The frame of the Upfallshower cannot be adjusted in depth, so for the outside finish you have to take the thickness of the finish and the thickness of the tiles into account. For the finish, we glued slats to the wall and the plates are also glued to the slats. Also do not forget to apply bilge tape to the vulnerable places of the drain that have been sawn.
Connecting rain shower
A reinforced 32mm hose is included for the overhead shower with ceiling mounting. This can easily be screwed onto the swivel behind the frame of the Upfallshower.
The last piece with the connection for the overhead shower is made of PVC. It is important that the water from the connection hose of the Upfallshower can run back to the shower head or in the opposite direction. We had the coupling protrude through the ceiling. With a copper adapter 5/4 x 1/2 we can use any standard shower head. For example, if you want a shower head that is smaller.
Underfloor heating under the tiles
Installing underfloor heating under the tiles will ensure that the Upfallshower will work even more economically, because less hot water needs to be topped up during use.
Very important is a good finish with kimband to ensure that all connections are watertight. Materials such as tiles, grout, sealant can always start working and the risk of leaks is therefore always present if you do not use kimband.
Since the drain is the lowest point of the bathroom, we also started there with an entire wall tile under the black glass.
Peel the foil on the black glass slightly from the edge. Use wallpaper or paper tape and stick it over the glass, the built-in frame and the tiles. Now cut along the outside of the frame (i.e. between tiles and frame) along the edge of the aluminum frame so that the tape remains on the edge of the frame. It is now easy to seal between the frame and the tiles.
Before testing the Upfallshower, clean the drain well.